TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK 2025
- Noel Smith
- Jun 3
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 4
At last, another trip back into the bush. It’s been 3 years now and long overdue. I had been wanting to return to Tembe Elephant Park for some time as it is in my opinion the best park in Kwa Zulu Natal and one of the best in South Africa. It is also within one days travel from home.
Historically it has had some of South Africas largest tuskers although sadly these no longer remain.
It was not without quite a bit of trepidation as it was to be the longest trip and time away for me since my accident. Gone are my days of driving 12 hours a day for 3 or 4 days to get to Zambia and Namibia.
All went very well with the trip up and back taking just short of 6 hours each way. Only had to do one stop each way. Pumba my Landy did well with record fuel consumption and the seat was more comfortable I think than my wheelchair. Only one unfortunate incident, speeding fine along the Simangaliso 60 km zone.
The trip was 4 days with 3 nights in Tembe’s Tented Camp. Well-appointed 3-star semi luxury safari tents with plenty of comfortable space. A few of the tents are classed as wheelchair friendly however I would offer the following cautionary advice. The pathway between the social areas and the tents are firm sandy paths however there are a few bumpy sandy places where someone self-propelling or with a weaker helper may struggle. The shower is an outdoor type, nice in summer I’m sure but cool now and I’m sure cold in mid-winter for the disabled. Otherwise, the only other recommendation would be to have a raised platform to transfer into the game viewing vehicle. I would not have been able to transfer without Chris’s strength and Sne’s help.
Chris Harrod has been my physiotherapist for the past few years and is also the owner of Enabled Adventures offering a bespoke service tailored to the requirements of disabled people wanting to get away or do something adventurous. A very caring and supportive person with an ever-helpful hand there for every bump or uncertain moment. A gentle giant with plenty of strength when needed. He also loves the bush, bird watching and photography like me so assisted me with my photography where I could use my camera like in the hide.
Sne is one of my carers who has been with me for six years, faithful, strong and caring. She also loves the bush.
There were a few anxious moments for Chris and Sne when we were mock charged a few times by Ele’s for their right of way. The bush was still very thick after a very wet season so there was often no space to pull over to let Ele’s pass as they demand right of way on the roads. Add to this Chris being new to my land rover, windy roads, sand and thick bush, we got into some tight spots reversing away from charging Ele’s. I think Chris had sweaty palms and Sne big eyes whilst I tried to assure them we would be fine once the Ele’s had space and we kept still and quiet. There is something deeply moving when you get to look into those amber eyes of an Ele bull.
The new hide which has been built below the old raised platform hide specifically for wheelchair users is fantastic and offers real close up viewing and photography opportunities as the Ele’s come and have mud bath a few meters away. A special thanks to my old friend Dominic Singery and his group of Honorary Officers who volunteered the time to build this and the walkway from the car park.
The public dining area and bar have been remodeled and are all accessible. Lovely to sit around the fire under crystal clear starlit nights in the Boma area listening to the Wood Owl and Bushbabies and recounting stories with other guests.
Tembe Elephant Park is community-owned, with the Tembe Tribal Authority and Tembe Community Trust owning the land and co-managing the park with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. The park was established in 1983 to protect elephants and the lives and property of the Tembe people. The Staff are so warm and welcoming. Service and interactions were excellent. Meals were top restaurant quality with a fair variety and fit for the healthiest appetites. A special thanks also to the reservations staff who helped me.
The second and third day we decided to go on the open game drive vehicle our ranger Khulu who was excellent in identifying birds and trees. We saw plenty of Lion and Leopard spoor however no sightings. We had a lovely young family from Pietermaritzburg with us who fortunately were also keen birders. All in all, we saw between 65 and 75 species in 3 days, not bad. Please to see I still have my raptor spotting eyes and managed to see a Southern Banded Snake Eagle.
Khulu treated us to a fantastic interaction at sunset on the edge of the marsh. A herd of Ele cows were intimidating two self-drive woman who really looked terrified. He pulled up in front of them and let the Ele’s do a few mock charges and settle down next to our vehicle. Then out of the bush came a very large bull in musth who ambled up to the females chewing a palm leaf. He then proceeded to get amorous with deep rumbling communication with the females not even a meter away from the guests sitting in our open vehicle. One of those special moments that you hold onto forever.
Thanks to Chris, Sne and Niomi for sharing their videos.
All in all a very special few days. If Chris had not had commitments for the Monday we would have stayed longer. Maybe next time.
Thanks for sharing